Yep, that’s right — Shelly had never been on the Great Ocean Road, so we ducked down to Anglesea to use it as our base while we explored. Cracking little park right on the beach beside a creek outlet. Crystal‑clear water, no fish… apparently a fish kill a month or two back. Odd sight.
We arrived to discover a 100 km ultra marathon on Saturday and a 200 km bike ride in Lorne on Sunday. So, plans… flexible. Luckily we were there midweek, so exploring was still on the cards. Set up camp, jumped back in the Trailblazer, and headed to Torquay for the Australian Surfing Museum. Interesting stuff — mostly the wild board shapes they’ve experimented with over the years — but sadly no old Gordon & Smith boards to help me learn more about mine at home.
Next stop: Bells. Proper swell running, way too big, nobody out. Still, a good day all round.
The next morning we ticked off Lorne and Apollo Bay so we could head inland on the weekend and dodge the event chaos. The drive brought back memories from 40‑odd years ago — two kids, a Kombi, and me and Tommo floating down the coast. They were the days I still can’t quite remember. Shelly was suitably impressed with the scenery.
We stopped at Sheoak Waterfall, and I even spotted a right‑hander I would’ve surfed if I’d had my board and a thicker wetsuit.
Next day: Aireys Lookout in the morning — beautifully maintained spot.
Then a wander south to a small hill with huge views.
We also wandered over to the ultra marathon finish area (right next to our campsite) to cheer runners home. The guy leading the 100 km came past us, cramped up 10 metres later, muttering that he was done. He only had 700 metres left. We started walking over when an official sprinted down, barked “Mate, you’re winning — let’s go!” and somehow got him moving again. He finished with a 5‑minute‑per‑kilometre average. For 100 km. Unreal. They started at 5 am and we still heard runners coming in at 11 pm. Only about 25 didn’t finish.
Beautiful place, great people, but time to keep moving.
We headed inland to Gellibrand to bypass Lorne. Set up, walked part of the Old Beechy Rail Trail, grabbed a coffee and a drink at the pub. Nice little town with great back‑road driving.
Next morning we rolled into Warrnambool to find our new base. Drove through the 12 Apostles area — felt like the Blue Mountains’ Three Sisters but with a mega tourist centre and parking for thousands. I’m sure 40 years ago we parked right next to the cliffs. Have now heard that they will be charging soon – WT. Too busy, starting to rain, so we kept going. A few kilometres down the road was Campbell National Park — so much better. No crowds, multiple walks (Loch Ard Gorge, Blowhole, Thunder Cave, beach tracks over low rock formations). Restored our faith that you can still find places the masses haven’t swarmed.
Next day: Tower Hill. Old volcano, multiple lakes, emus blocking the track. Still windy — lots of big old trees knocked over. Locals reckon it was the January 2026 storm that dumped 180 mm in a couple of hours and caused flash flooding. You might remember the footage of cars washed out around Lorne. Seeing the aftermath in person gives you a real sense of nature’s power when it turns ugly.
Next day we backtracked to Bay of Islands, Martyrs, Halladale Point, Timboon, and London Bridge. Coastline still delivering the awe.
Not sure if I mentioned the potholes in Victoria — thought it was political hype until we crossed the NSW border. Hit enough of them to knock the wheel alignment out. TyrePower booked us in for an alignment and rotation — helpful crew, reasonable price. They did mention my tyres are too big and I should drop a size next time. Makes sense — full wheel lock rub has always felt a bit dodgy. Another life lesson. Afternoon walk along Merri River — great vibe around there.
On the road again to Portland. Stopped at Port Fairy — trendy little town with preserved whaling‑era facades, lots of food and clothing shops. Very Maleny. In the afternoon we visited Point Nelson Lighthouse and watched huge swells hammer the cliffs.
Plenty to see around Portland with three capes nearby. Spent a day exploring one, then found the resident elephant seal at Crumpet Beach. Shelly got a bit too close, but we all lived to tell the tale.
Windy night again — gusts in the high 70s — but we’re getting better at storm tie‑downs. More walks, more wild coastline. Found out about the 250 km coastal walk from Portland to Nelson and back — 12 days if you’re keen. Quietly… Shelly and I might be. We walked about 20 km of it and the rawness is indescribable. Would be brilliant with three or four couples, a driver, and some comfy Airbnb stops.
Next day we crossed into SA. The Great Ocean Road exceeded expectations. SA up next.
PS — Reflective Thoughts
Three months on the road has done something to us — something I didn’t expect. The miles, the wind, the walks, the quiet cups of coffee, the shared “look at that” moments… they’ve slowed us down in the best way.
We’re listening more. Laughing more. Giving each other space without drifting apart. It feels a little like rediscovering the version of us from years ago — the one that wasn’t rushed or tired or juggling too much.
Maybe that’s the real gift of travel: not the places, but the way it gently rearranges you.
Whatever it is, I’m grateful. And I’m ready for whatever comes next.
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