We rolled out of Girraween and pointed the nose toward Glen Innes, taking the back way via Thunderbolt’s Lookout. WOW. A must if you want to see 360 degree lookout on top of a person who knew his place of refuge.
That whole drive through Emmaville was a 5/5 surprise—rolling hills, crisp air, and that feeling when the landscape suddenly opens up and reminds you how small you are.
Glen Innes threw in a bonus: the old brick factory had an open day. Steam gear, local stories, and people who seemed to welcome us as if we were their “neighbours” for the weekend. Classic country town energy.
We also had our first damage to the Ultimate – somehow the Anderson plug between the car and Ultimate became unplugged on the drive and melted a bit of the plug away – lucky I had a spare and some electrical tape.
We stayed at the Glen Innes showgrounds – great hot showers with only one tap – interesting – clean and affordable. And the sunset we had was up there.
Cooked the streak as Murray had showed me and yummy.
The Pub, the Footy, the Locals… and Then Paul
Sunday night we wandered into the local pub to watch the NRL—except the footy wasn’t even on. The barmaid laughed (something about a World Cup), flicked the channel over, and suddenly it was just us, her, and two locals who clearly knew every bend in every road.
A G&T or two in, we mentioned we were heading south.
One of them leaned in and said:
“Don’t take the highway. Take the back roads. Trust us.”
That was the first tip.
Not long after, Paul and his partner walked in. Instant connection—warm, funny, and full of miles on the road. We pushed tables together and shared dinner, swapping stories and ideas.
By the next morning, Paul had emailed us a hand‑picked list of must‑see spots in WA. Another contact, another good human, another thread in the travel web.
Armidale, Uralla & the Gorges That Come Out of Nowhere
Following the locals’ advice, we took the back roads to Armidale—rolling hills, quiet stretches, old farmhouses, and views you’d never see from the highway.
- Gara Gorge gave us our first taste of the deep cuts hiding inside sheep and cattle country, plus a rock wallaby for good measure.
- Ebor Falls and Wollomombi Falls turned “nice scenery” into “giant scars in the earth” moments—dramatic, moody, and completely unexpected.
The next morning we ducked 20 km south to Uralla “just for a look”… and within minutes decided:
Yep. This is our next stop. Let’s move here.
So we did — packed up and shifted our base 20 minutes down the road. And that’s when our new motto was born:
TRAVEL SLOW. At this rate it’ll take us years to get around Australia, and we’re fine with that.
Uralla itself has a bit of Montville/Bellingen energy — quirky, creative, and full of little surprises like the fairy doors hidden around town.
First Nations Art & First Live Music
We took a couple‑of‑hours return drive out to Yarrowyck Nature Reserve, winding through beautiful country the whole way. The walk to the First Nations rock art was gentle and reflective, and the site itself felt protected and important.
That night we ticked off our first live music at The Alternate Root. Mulled wine was involved. Should not be repeated.
Tia Falls, Apsley Falls & More Good Humans
Next day: Tia Falls. OMG. Another gorge, another moment of “how does this exist in cattle country”. Massive cows grazing on the plains above made the drop even more dramatic.
Then came Apsley Falls—the next level. Multiple platforms, 120‑metre‑plus depths, and a 2.8 km loop where a quick hello with Victor and his sister turned into a half‑hour chat. Strong family, strong stories, more good humans.
Lunch in Walcha, then back home.
We wrapped the week with the Winter Solstice festival—constellation sculptures glowing in the dark, firelight, and some very happy arty photos.
Next stop: Willow Tree.
